Back to Buenos Aires

Getting some fresh juice at the San Telmo Market


One of the many groups of walking dogs... I think their walker was getting some water.


Creepy cat in the Recoleta Cemetery (they are all over!)

Street performer at the San Telmo Market

Plaza de Mayo in the Mircocentro

Our very hot and humid Thanksgiving feast up on the Terraza

Cutting up our Argentinean Steak (we decided to trade in the Turkey)

Standing outside my bedroom

The past week has been a rough ride, but now things are starting to get back to normal. It was so nice to be able to travel home for the weekend and be with all my family. It was a sad time, but it was spent cherishing the memories of the man that brought us all together, Grandpa. I cant explain to you the amazing bond my family has. When we get together, for better or for worse, we always have a good time. Even with the tears and sorrow over Grandpa, we were able to have a memorable time.

My three night, four day visit was a quick reminder of the things I really need to enjoy on vacation before I head home. One of them being the heat. Arriving back in Buenos Aires, the high temperature was well over 10 degrees warmer than before I left along with high humidity. It was a welcoming surprise!

I was also able to enjoy the company of Kristen, Whitney, and Natalie, my Utah friends who arrived in the city while I was home, as well as our friend Emilie from California, whom we all met in Ecuador. Two days after I arrived, I headed back to the airport to pick up my sister Stephanie who will be traveling with me for the next two weeks.

As if I didn't eat enough while I was home, I had the opportunity to host Thanksgiving Dinner at my house here in Buenos Aires. It was by far the hottest and most humid night yet. We were all covered in a nice glaze of sweat sitting up on the terrace enjoying great food and the night sky. I made Mashed Potatoes for the first time ever with a white bacon gravy, and I must say they were pretty darn tasty! Instead of Turkey we decided to order steak, after all we are in Argentina. I had the privilege to slice and dice the meat, being the man of the house, and we all dug in to our various dishes. It was such a good time!

Today we are in San Telmo for the antique market. I really wanted to bring Steph here so she could enjoy the excitement of all the shopping and street performers. Weather permitting we are going to try and make the polo game tonight. The past day it has been raining quite a bit, so we don't know if it will be on or not. I guess we will keep our fingers crossed.

Buenos Aires

Buenos Aires has been the perfect location to spend my last few weeks of travel. The city is made of up 40 plus barrios, each having their own unique characteristics. I have spent the last few nights in the area called San Telmo. This area is know for their antique shops and the weekly Sunday market.

The San Telmo market is so crazy! They close down the entire street, nearly the whole length of San Telmo. There are bands, performers, artisans, and food vendors amongst other things. It´s a great way to spend a Sunday afternoon browsing around and people watching. When the sun goes down, the dancing gets intense. Tango, African, and other type of dancers are everywhere and the crowd is encouraged to join. It´pretty much one big dance party!

Most of the day, I have been enjoying one of the many parks/gardens, walking around the ecological reserve, or catching up in my travel journal at a corner cafe. It really can´t get anymore relaxing. I also purchased a month pass at a indoor swimming pool. I would love to run on the river or through the parks, but my foot has been ridiculous lately so swimming is my next best alternative.

Shopping is another topic in itself... I have never been to a city where I love everything I see... its bad! Buenos Aires is honestly the best city for shopping I have ever been to. There are so many boutiques that design their own clothes. Everything is unique and exceptional. The prices aren´t exactly cheap but they aren´t unreasonable either.

Today I moved into a barrio called Palermo Hollywood. I am living with a host family that has a beautiful antique home in one of the hippest areas of Buenos Aires. My room has french doors that lead out to a cobblestone patio full of flowers and plants. Upstairs, there is a large open air terrace and art studio where my host mom, Nora, teachers painting classes. We also have a large, but very friendly dog named Moto. I am so excited to settle in and enjoy this city for a few more weeks.

However, yesterday my grandfather passed away... He was in decent health before I left, but I didn´t think such a thing would happen while I was gone. But I guess God takes us when he wants us, and there is nothing else we can do about it. Fortunately, I will be able to attend his funeral thanks to assistance from my traveler´s insurance.

It will be good to go home and be there to support my family and especially my grandmother. My grandfather was a great man that always loved to be working on some type of project. He was very hardworking and taught me many things. I am grateful for his example and love he showed to me throughout his life.

A little slice of Paradise

Iguazu was nothing more than the gates of heaven! Every two steps, I wanted to snap another picture because they were so beautiful! I was able to take a high powered boat ride up the river and actually get up close and personal with the falls. A little too personal at times. I thought we were going to be sucked under the falls there for a bit, but like the rest of my stories I made it out alive :-)

The hikes up around the falls had breathtaking views and one could sit and take it in all day long. It was a relaxing, yet very hot day. Many of the overlooks were so close to the falls that there was always a slight mist in the air, so that made everything feel much better. After spending the entire day enjoying the splendor of this amazing creation, I was ready for a nap!

Iguazu was well worth the 18 hour bus ride from Buenos Aires!

Still alive

The past week has been a whirlwind of activities! My four hour ride south of Lima to Huacachina, was well worth the drive. This crazy little oasis is unreal! I hiked to the top of the dune just behind our hostel to find nothing but sand as far as the eye can see! Me and the girls signed up for some sand boarding on these massive mountains of sand. I don´t know what was the bigger thrill, riding around in the dune buggie or flying down the mountain on a piece of wood. The bottom of the board was hard to keep slick. They had wax for us to put on before each run, but the sand would rub it off well before you reached the bottom of the slope :-(

That night I took a bus back to Lima only to wake up at 4am to catch my flight to Cuzco. The girls arrived later that afternoon, taking a 16 hour overnight bus ride from Huacachina... I'm glad I flew. The day was spent exploring Cuzco and enjoying some fine dining. That night we went to an election day party for Americans held at a nearby diner. It was fun to watch the votes come in and hoop and holler to our liking.

I never knew how difficult it was to actually get to Machu Picchu, but after an 1 1/2 hour taxi ride, a 2 hour train ride, and an overnight stay in Aguas Calientes, we were on our way to seeing one of the most magnificent wonders of the world! We woke up at 4am (yet again) to start our hike up the mountain to the park entrance. It was so great to watch the valley take shape as the dark faded into a dim glow. (You can take the bus from Aguas Calientes but they don't start running until 5:45, you don't get the experience of hiking in the wee hours, and they cost $14 round trip.)

We hiked literally straight up for about one and a half miles. Kristen and I were on a mission to get tickets to Wayna Picchu (This is the mountain you see in the background of Machu Picchu. They limit only 400 people on this mountain per day.) and never stopped til we reached the top! We were about 20 people from the front of the line and had no trouble getting our tickets.

Machu Picchu is absolutely out of this world! The views, the architecture, the mystery, and even the llamas! It all adds up to the amazement I have for this unusual place. The photos don't even do it justice. By far, its one of my most favorite places ever! Not to mention the hike up Wayna Picchu... mom I suggest you not hike this one. Steep drop-offs, narrow trails, and nothing to hold on to but a little wire cable, if that. We were so sweaty! It was such a nice sunny day once the morning fog burned off. I posted one picture from the top. Its of me, Kristen, and this Peruvian girl that wanted a picture of us... I guess we looked like celebs.

That afternoon I boarded my train back to Ollytatamba and took a 2 hour bus ride back to Cuzco. Catching my flight early the next morning, to again catch another flight early this morning... and this is why I am fighting off a cold. No sleep, stress of travel, hiking all day, and high elevation doesn't make for a healthy person.

Despite it all, I made it to Buenos Aires safe and sound. The streets are alive with the weekly Sunday market. Bands are playing, people are dancing, and the city is alive! I cant wait to soak it all up in these next few weeks, but tomorrow I am going to try and catch a bus to Iguazu Falls. And so is the life of a backpacker :-)

Love you all

Lima

I really didn´t have high expectations for Lima, but to my surprise it has been one of my favorite stops! The entire coastline has massive cliffs speckled with fancy buildings and a nice boardwalk. The views are simply amazing! Most of my time was spent in the barrio called Miraflores which has great shopping, dinning, and entertainment.

On Halloween, I was able to meet up with Kristen and Natalie. It was great to see them once again and listen to their stories from Peru. On Saturday, Kristen and I headed to central Lima (Natalie was under the weather) where the first day of bull fighting was beginning!

So there we are in the stadium, all ready for the games to begin, when we hear and feel a faint rumble. We both thought it was the bulls running around somewhere under the stadium, but we were wrong. When the second rumble (louder and stronger) shakes the entire stadium, my heart skips a beat and I realize it´s an earthquake!!!

Luckily, the earthquake only consisted of the two minor rumbles and it was over with. By far it was the weirdest sensation I have ever experienced in my life! The people sitting around us said it was normal for Lima. I guess its a rather high earthquake zone. The rest of the night was great! There were a total of six bull fights, one of which was a ten year old boy! Kristen and I both thought he was going to be a goner. As tradition has it, each bull is dueled to the death and dragged out of the stadium by a chariot of horses.

Afterward, everyone gets together outside the stadium to socialize, drink, and partake of grilled bull´s heart (anticucho). It was such a great way to practice our Spanish and we met so many great people. The anticucho was very tender and had so much flavor! Later that night, we headed to the airport to meet the fourth and final traveler, Whitney.

Today I hopped a bus five hours south of Lima to a desert oasis called Huacachina. It is nothing but a small Lagoon surrounded by massive palms and giant dunes. Tomorrow the girls are meeting up, and we are all going sand boarding (much like snowboarding but on sand). I am pretty excited about it. I will try and post some pictures soon.

I hope things are getting better at home. Grandpa and Grandma you are in my thoughts and prayers. Love you!